With advanced R&D laboratories and extensive field experience, ServiceMaster by Restoration Xperts has developed superior programs and regimens to care for a variety of floor surfaces including marble, vinyl, ceramic, quarry tile and wood. The result? Enhanced floor protection, slip resistance and appearance.

What wood is best for me?   back to top

When selecting a wood floor for your home many factors must be considered. Your budget will determine the price range for you. Your own preferences will lead you to pick a color range. We have provided a hardness scale to help determine the durability of some of your choices. The Janka hardness test is a measurement of the force necessary to embed a .444-inch steel ball to half its diameter in wood. It is the industry standard for gauging the ability of various species to tolerate denting and normal wear, as well as being a good indication of the effort required to either nail or saw the particular wood.

Please note that this is just a partial list containing some of the most popular choices in wood flooring as well as some of the more exotic species we carry. For a detailed description of a particular species, click on its name to view a wood flooring specification page on that type of wood.

Will my wood floor dent?

Hardwood floors as with all wood are comprised of basically soft wood fibers and millions of cell structures. The density of these wood fibers technically makes one wood harder than another. But all wood will dent if something heavy is dropped on it. The spike end of a high heel shoe can indent the surface of the wood as well, i.e. a 110 ten pound woman will exert 2000 pounds of pressure at the tip of the heel .

Finishes Compared   back to top

Through the years many different finishes have been applied to flooring. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. The earlier finishes used were wax, shellac, varnish and lacquer. They are rarely used today as wood floor finishes because of the high maintenance involved and low durability. The more durable finishes such as water-based finishes and oil-modified urethanes are more widely applied to flooring today .

Shellac: With its great sealing capabilities was the finish to use prior to the 1950s but went out of style with the advent of newer finishes. Shellac now has regained a position as a floor finish and is used as both as a sealer coat under certain finishes or as a finish by itself over antique wide plank flooring. Shellac gives antique flooring a wonderful rich patina and is fast drying usually 1-2 hours between coats. It adheres well over other types of finishes. When dry it forms an excellent barrier to help protect the wood from humidity. Although it is not as durable as a top coat on floors as some of the newer finishes, shellac still has its place in line with long-time floor and furniture refinishers that want that original depth and color that only shellac can give you. Shellac is susceptible to water spotting (white discoloration) so it is not recommended for use on a kitchen or bathroom floor.

Oil and wax finish: is another older type finishing method where a penetrating oil sealer (available in various stain colors) is applied to the bare wood surface. This is allowed to dry for approximately 1-3 hours then a second or third coat is applied rubbing in between coats. After approximately. 24 hours drying, a coat of paste wax is applied and buffed with a high-speed buffer. This method is more frequently used in commercial applications. It does require more maintenance by periodic waxing or rebuffing to bring the luster back. But it is more repairable than a urethane based finish.

Varnish: was the next progressive step for floor finishes. Made with natural resins of fossilized sap and natural oils like linseed and Tung and later soybean and safflower. The development of synthetic resins led to phenolic-resin varnish a combination of phenol and formaldehyde with a natural oil. Varnish is harder than shellac so it makes touch up more difficult. Varnish is not as durable as some of the newer finishes on the market today. The common method of applying varnish is to apply three coats allowing each coat to dry overnight with light sanding and vacuuming between coats.

Oil modified urethanes (polyurethane): One advantage of an oil-base urethane finish is its durability. The application is relatively easy. The coating has a thick looking appearance and gives oak flooring a honey color tone. It has great moisture resistance and is also one of the most scratch-resistant finishes available. It can be hard to touch up or recoat. Oil-based urethanes have a tendency to darken and or yellow with age. How much will depend on the quality of the urethane that is purchased. Oil-based urethanes are applied in much the same manner as in varnishes mentioned above.

Moisture Cured Urethane: The major difference between this urethane and other urethanes is that it contains Di-Isocyanate Methyl-Benzene. While most finishes dry through evaporation of the solvents leaving the resins on the floor, moisture cured urethane dries by pulling moisture from the air. This process along with the unique way it cross-links makes moisture-cured urethane one of the hardest finishes available. The disadvantages of moisture-cured urethane are that it has a very unpleasant odor. A respirator is a must when applying because of its toxic fumes. It is also extremely difficult to apply.
UV-Cured Urethane: This finish is applied at the factory and must be cured with Ultra Violet lights. This is an extremely popular method with pre-finished hardwood flooring manufacturers.

Water based finishes: are made up three different ways. 1. Acrylic (less durable). 2. A blend of acrylic and Polyurethane (durable). 3. One hundred percent Urethane (very durable). These finishes do have some advantages over the oil-based urethanes. Their drying time is much faster (one to two hours), there is little odor, and clean up is with soap and water. Most water based urethanes are a clear finish and frequently used over white and pastel colored stains. Their application can be difficult due to its quick drying. The method of applying water based finish is similar to that of any fast dry finish where it must be applied quicker in smaller sections to prevent lap marks. Personal opinion dictates whether or not it is a disadvantage that water based finishes do not produce the thick looking finish and amber color like the oil modified urethanes; and, also they are more expensive to purchase.

Alumide or Ceramic finishes: Contain particles of Aluminum oxide or Ceramic mixed with the finish and are the new factory applied finishes. These Finishes are extremely durable and long lasting.


Sanding vs. Screen and Coat   back to top

The term “refinishing a wood floor” is often misleading. A worn wood floor will require a different process than one that has been damaged, or has had the finish worn down to the wood.

A wood floor, properly maintained, will require a screen and coat approximately every two or three years. The screen and coat process removes only a small amount of the surface finish to reduce the appearance of scratches, after which new finish is laid on the wood floor restoring the appearance to like new.

When a wood floor has been neglected, or damaged by water, it becomes impossible to screen and coat the wood floor and achieve a satisfactory result. A wood floor with this type of damage needs to be sanded and coated with new finish. Sanding the wood floor will remove the top most layer of the wood floor, leaving it flat and smooth. A solid wood floor should be able to sustain at least four sanding during its lifetime, dependant upon use.


Dust   back to top

The sanding of a wood floor can be very dusty, on average generating two or three large trash bags of saw dust. This dust can end up all over you home if proper measures are not taken. The traditional way is to apply masking to all of the cabinets’ surfaces, and openings in the area that is to be sanded. This method does a great job of containing the dust, until you take it down to do the finish, and then the dust goes everywhere. With the traditional method the home owner is left with a large mess to clean up, sometimes finding piles of dust for months after the job is complete.

The newest approach is a vacuum contained system, also referred to as a “Dust Free System”. No sanding process is totally dust free. A vacuum contained system does however offer the best method for keeping your house free of dust during the sanding process. Most home owners do not even find a noticeable trace of dust in their homes.


Pricing   back to top

All pricing is done by the job. Please call us for an estimate.


Installation   back to top

Installation is one of the most important and most overlooked items when purchasing a wood flood. A quality installer can make a wood floors appearance last a life time. While a poor installer can make you wish that you never put wood in your home. All wood that will be installed in your home needs to be completely acclimated to the home prior to installation. Having too much or too little moisture in the wood can cause a wide variety of problems. Installers who are willing to cut corners to get your job done sooner rather than latter are doing you no favors.

Real wood flooring can be expensive, but caring for it doesn’t have to be. ServiceMaster by Restoration Xperts believes your wood floors should always look new, and we work to see that they do by using our specially formulated wood care products.

The benefits of our proprietary approach to floor care include:

• Superior clean and shine
• Reduced wear on floor surfaces
• No burn marks
• Faster and more efficient regular cleaning
• Dust-free burnishing
• Enhanced slip resistance
• Fewer strippings required